If I had to rebuild my wardrobe from scratch, here are the pieces I would choose

Hello,

This is Benoît, co-founder of Bonnegueule.

For this edition of our new Minute Selvedge newsletter, written four-handed with David, we wanted to set ourselves a little challenge.

We asked ourselves what we' d do if we had to start our wardrobe from scratch, but with all the experience we'd accumulated over the years. Which pieces would we choose to rebuild our dressing room?

Rather than come up with a generic list of basics (which I'm sure you already know), we decided to fully embrace a more subjective and personal approach, and reflect on our clothes that are truly indispensable to us.

For video game connoisseurs, it's a bit like the "New Game+" you sometimes find: it's a mode you unlock after finishing a game where you start the story from the beginning, but retain the skills and experience points accumulated during the first playthrough.

Benoît

Merino T-shirts

This is by far THE Bonnegueule item I wear the most: almost every day, all year round. The merino t-shirt is a mainstay of my wardrobe, especially when I'm on the move, because its anti-odour properties mean it can be worn over a weekend without any problems.

This really is a Swiss-knife piece, which does proud service, and for which we wonder why we didn't discover it sooner.

Wear it under a sweater, a sweatshirt, an overshirt, a work jacket, whatever you like.

A fine tartan cashmere sweater

This is the ultimate winter base layer. Yes, you read that right, I'm talking about a sweater to be worn next to the skin, as a base layer.

I had this revelation when we released our Lucio sweater in Todd and Duncan cashmere, which I wore intensively for a few winters, obviously with great care, as cashmere is far from being an indestructible material in the face of daily abrasion and chafing.

It's a very flexible layer, with three possibilities depending on the warmth you're looking for:

• it can be worn next to the skin (which is very pleasant when the cashmere is of high quality),
• with a T-shirt underneath,
• or an overshirt over it.
• Or all three!

In my case, I like to wear it under a western shirt, and I love taking this piece on trips to lighten my packing list.

The only drawback is that it doesn't feel very good when you're sweating in it, right against your skin. So put a tee-shirt (in merino!) underneath if you plan to run behind the bus.

I should mention that I'd choose Scottish cashmere, because of all the cashmere pieces I have (4), it's the one that improves the most with age. It gets softer and softer with each wash, more so than Italian cashmere.

This is another little-known property of Scottish cashmere: like new denim, it needs to "get used to". It's not going to be inordinately soft when you buy it, and you need to wait a few washes for it to reveal its full potential.

Obviously, you have to pay the price, but a good cashmere can last 10 years (or more) without worry, with a few precautions, the right care and possibly a few repairs.

A western shirt

It's no coincidence that I own 8 of these, because I've come to regard them as an essential part of any man's wardrobe, and it's very important to me that they're part of every Bonnegueule collection.

You can wear it with a chino and sneakers, but I think it's when you twist it that the western shirt becomes really interesting. In other words, when you wear it with dressier pieces, like a tweed blazer and loafers.

And of course, because of its denim nature, this garment has great wash-out potential: it will become more and more beautiful over time.

In a similar vein, and quite complementary, I'll take a chambray shirt, with a nice button-down collar or another collar structured enough to wear with a blazer.

White jeans

I've found that I wear white jeans far more often than indigo jeans. The real jean that goes with everything is white or ecru denim, which instantly brightens up an outfit.

They'll develop a patina over time, and stains that don't wash out will appear, but that's normal : they'll mark all the adventures you've had with your white jeans.

In this case, I wouldn't hesitate to choose a slightly stretchy fabric, as this is a piece I wear very frequently and which will often go through the washing machine: so it's important to maintain comfort wear after wear.

(And that's why we'll soon be adding stretch selvedge jeans in ecru to our range).

As for the cut, I still like semi-fitted (or semi-straight) cuts, but I'm open to a wider leg opening!

A pair of Norda

There it is, the pair of shoes with which I can do everything on a weekend: sport, restaurant, nature walk, concert, trip, etc. It's really my ultimate pair.

They really are my ultimate pair, and I think they're the first thing I'll buy back if my wardrobe catches fire, so much so are they part of my daily uniform of white jeans and a western shirt.

Its quasi-futuristic design makes it easy to wear as part of an outfit, and above all, its Cordura and Dyneema upper gives it unrivalled, virtually tear-proof durability.

Take it in a very neutral color, in shades of sand, gray or white, for easy assembly with the rest of your garments. Its intrinsic design already makes it original, so there's no need to go looking for colors that are too bright.

A pair of moccasins

Yes, I'm now a moccasin convert! A few years ago, I bought a pair of Alden that I love to wear, and seeing David in moccasins almost every day reinforced my choice. It's fascinating to see how you can wear loafers with everything, from jeans to suits. They're the perfect pair for a wedding weekend: to wear before, during and after the ceremony, for example.

As for the color, I really like the tobacco/sand/taupe/pecan colors in suede leather, always with a view to having a very versatile color, and that's why it's the color of our summer Wembley :

PS: on a different note, I find it inconceivable to spend a summer without espadrilles, including for dressier outfits with elegant shirts and pants.

David

The more time goes by, the more my style becomes defined. And the more my style becomes defined, the more I realize that my basics don't necessarily match those of others.

For example, I (almost) never wear sneakers or sweatshirts anymore. I always choose knitted polo shirts, never cotton pique.

So, if I had to rebuild a wardrobe from scratch today, here are the first clothes I'd check off my list.

T-shirts

I don't wear so many plain T-shirts. Over time, I've digressed a bit and now wear :

• In autumn and winter: an ecru long-sleeved merino t-shirt, Benoît having completely converted me. It's now a must-have for me, given my level of chilliness.
• Spring and summer: white and black tank tops replaced the t-shirt. Cooler and more interesting in layering with its slightly scalloped collar, it's a piece I've fully embraced.
• And if I'm wearing a t-shirt, it's striped and made of Japanese cotton. It's very precise, but exactly what I need, with a subtle, slightly faded stripe, as the Japanese know so well how to do.

Mesh

• Fine merino sweaters: round-neck and turtleneck. A very useful garment all year round, it keeps me just the right amount of warmth (i.e. prevents me from getting sick) for cool summer evenings as well as for layering in winter.
• One or two thicker knits for when it's really cold. With a funnel neck because it's a shape I really like, like our Molene sweater.

Shirts

With a few exceptions like the button-down collar shirt, I don't wear the classic shirt very much. I prefer the long-sleeved, Cuban-collared version. I like the casual, cool look of the open collar.

And for the hottest days, a fun shirt is really welcome, for example the "Ripley" by Scott Fraser collection.

Suits

I often wear suits. Not because I need to, but because I really want to.

And if I had to choose one, it would be soft, unstructured, soft tailoring. The look is both chic and casual and nonchalant. I love it.

In this register, we have the Otranto suit, with a soft jacket and straight pants.

Outdoor pieces

• For mid-season: a Mac-typeraincoat in beige tones
• For winter: a long, belted woolcoat. De Bonne Facture's Grandad Coat is a good example of this category.
• And because there's more to life than long coats, I'd go for a short, hip-length jacket to wear with high-waisted pants (more on that later).

Pants

I only wear high-waisted, straight-cut pants anymore. They're the ones I feel most comfortable in, and the ones that suit my figure best.

On the one hand, I'd obviously choose a good pair of straight-cut, high-waisted raw jeans like our Novare jeans, which I've owned since they first came out and wear very often.

On the other, I'd pick up a shovelful of "Tailor Pants " in every color, which can be found at Universal Surplus or Broadway&Sons. I own four of them, and the fit is exactly what I'm looking for: high waist, darts, straight leg with a leg opening of around 23cm.

Shoes

• Two pairs of moccasins: a black one in smooth leather and a brown one in suede (just in time, we have both at Bonnegueule with the Wembley).
• A pair of light sneakers, German Army Trainers or Moonstar for example

Accessories

• A thin brown belt (2cm) to discreetly dress up an outfit, and a black western belt to add cachet and an Americana spirit that speaks to me a lot.
• Native American-inspired rings, as Harpo does so well

What are your essentials? Even more interesting: what are your very own must-have pieces that are unique and not necessarily what you'd expect from a basic?

Tell us all about it, whether on our networks or on our Discord, we can't wait to hear from you.

Thanks again for reading this second edition of the Selvedge Minute.

We'll see you soon for the next one!

Benoît and David